Frustration...

[Ysabel Kid]

Don't get me wrong - I love shooting C&B revolvers. Especially my 1860 Army reproduction. More especially with Y2K. We did so recently (see thread: http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... =1&t=59024). If you read down part of the way, it mentions that three of the six nipples refuse to budge.

Well, I soaked the cylinder for a week in WD-40. Still won't move.

Soaked it for another week in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Still won't budge - not any of the three stuck nipples.

Going to try the heat trick tomorrow (Old No.7's hint); heat for an hour at 300 degrees. See if that will work. If not, I'll soak it again for another week in the Liquid Wrench.

I have tried impacts to both the base and nipple itself to try to jar it loose (using a brass punch). This is really beginning to P-O me no end!!!

Any more hints fellas?

[Mescalero]

Try Kroil.

[Buck Elliott]

You may have to drill them out and replace them...

[Griff]

For reference: 1 - Always remove nipples for cleaning cylinders. 2 - Always lube nipple threads before re-assembly.

I've even gotten into the habit of leaving the nipples just finger tight during storage, and tighten just before loading.

Good luck.

[Blaine]

Sears has that kit to back out stuck screws and bolts......

[Old No7]

Hey Jay:

Along with the PB/Kroil, tapping and heat, try using an "Easy Out" broken screw extractor on the nipple too. Tap it in tight (no need to predrill a starter hole) and then put a wrench on it. It will ruin the cone of the nipple -- but the threads of that one may be buggered up or rusted anyhow.

Nothing worse than "uncooperative nipple" (or two) to ruin your day...

Good luck Kid!

Old No7

[Mescalero]

I have encountered some " uncooperative nipples " in my day

[Malamute]

In other mechanical endeavors, impact straight down is what seems to help. when seating scope base screws, a sharp rap on the handle of the screwdriver, then torqueing them a bit more gives a little extra. Not sure the direction of your impacts.

If it were me heating it, I'd do it right on the nipple with a torch, not the entire cylinder. I think the heat differential of heating one part will do more than heating the entire thing.

The other option, if all this doesn't work, is just keep shooting it. Assuming the nipples aren't damaged in the process. I for one wouldn't do anything to damage them so long as the gun works otherwise.

[horsesoldier03]

A 50/50 mix of Acetone and Transmission Fluid is supposed to be a miracle cure for stuck bolts. Not sure how safe that acetone will be on the finish of the cylinder. You might tap toothpicks into the nipples and then put the mixture into the cylinders chambers. Let us know when you find something the works, GOOD LUCK!

[Mescalero]

The co-efficient of expansion for modern alloyed steel is 13 millonths of an inch, for every inch of linear measurement, per degree of temperature deviation from ambient.
Heating the nipple, as opposed to heating the mass around it ( the cylinder ) will not help your endeavor, and will in effect; work against you.

[Blaine]

The co-efficient of expansion for modern alloyed steel is 13 millonths of an inch, for every inch of linear measurement, per degree of temperature deviation from ambient.
Heating the nipple, as opposed to heating the mass around it ( the cylinder ) will not help your endeavor, and will in effect; work against you.

Exactly...why the heck expand the nipple when it's already stuck?...And, you might lose the temper of the steel in the cyl......

[Ysabel Kid]

Thanks fellas.

I must admit I am worried about damaging the nipples. I have not found a listing for anything that is quite like these. The gun is a Centennial, aka "Centaure", made in Belgium. Production dates ran from 1959 through 1973. My Dad purchased it and was the original owner, though he never fired it. It hung on the mantle with a 1851 Navy reproduction the whole time I was growing up. I first fired it around 1984. Given the serial number and my recollection of it always being there, I suspect it was an earlier production, say in the first five years. Perhaps a bit older, maybe the latter half of the 60's, since my Dad was a teacher before becoming an FBI Agent and made very little money prior to 1968 (didn't make a ton as an FBI Agent, but that doubled his pay over what he made as a teacher!).

So, the gun hasn't been made in at least 40 years, and the dimensions don't seem to match anything I find listed:

Cone height = 0.1960"
Cone diameter = 0.1565"
Overall Cone height (with base) = 0.2855"
Overall height = 0.4910"
Overall diameter = 0.3000"
Thread height = 0.2055"
Thread diameter = 0.2205"
Thread pitch = 1/4x28 fine

If I can find some replacement nipples that fit, I'd feel more confident about being aggressive with the stuck nipples, up to and including drilling them out. I wouldn't mind replacing the nipples with Treso ones, but so far haven't found anything that quite matches the dimensions above.

Keep the suggestions coming!

[plowboy 45]

If you drill them, take one of the free ones out take a drill bit that will go in the hole and not quite touch the threads, then start the drill slowly till started in the stuck nipple then take off when drilled through take a pick and dig around till you get the thread of the nipple coming out of the cylinder thread , then pull out slowly without breaking, should come out like a. Spring. If you drive a ease out in the stuck nipple and it breaks off in there your really screwed, cause you ain't gonna drill it at that point the bit ain't gonna cut the ease out. Maybe this will help. You can always change the threads in the cylinder, good luck.

[guido4198]

You asked...so here goes:
I'm not trying to be funny...but this product came to mind when you started talking about heating the cylinder.
http://www.prokennel.com/poop-freezeaer ... y10oz.aspx
Put the cylinder in the oven to bring the entire thing up to 300 degrees...then spray this stuff DIRECTLY on the stuck nipple(nipple only...to the extent possible)..perhaps through the little hole. It will pull the nipple's temp down to well below zero and PERHAPS create the temperature differential required to help break'em loose.
Good Luck.

[Rusty]

Don't worry about damaging the nipples. Dixie Gun works will have your replacements. Just call them on the phone when you're ready.

[M. M. Wright]

Don't worry about the rest of the dimensions on the nipples as long as the threads match. The cones are way too small for the no. 11 caps that are what we normally can get so you need fatter ones anyway. What I'd worry about is the flash hole dia. I've fired guns with rusted out flash holes that let so much gas escape that it broke the tumbler that holds the hammer. Drill 'em.

[Mescalero]

guido4198 hit on the way I handled situations simular to this in the machine shop, except back then I used freon.
The rapid contraction of the lessor mass sometimes gave the dimensional gap required to accomplish the task.

[jeepnik]

Mescalero beat me to it. I'd try chilling the nipple before I'd try heating the cylinder. You might also give a small (Milwaukee) makes one that's 1/4" drive) electric impact a shot. In fact, I'd do that before drilling, mess up the threads and you've created a much larger problem.

[Malamute]

The co-efficient of expansion for modern alloyed steel is 13 millonths of an inch, for every inch of linear measurement, per degree of temperature deviation from ambient.
Heating the nipple, as opposed to heating the mass around it ( the cylinder ) will not help your endeavor, and will in effect; work against you.

I understand what youre saying, but I think the nature of the heat isn't that it "loosens" it per se, but the heat differential (expanding the part at a different rate than the opposing part) is supposed to allow the rust or torque bond to move from that differential, even though the secondary part quickly takes up the heat. Just the least movement seems to help break the bond. That's the theory as I understand it, and have used it on non gun stuff. The freeze probably works better, especially if you take it out right away.

[mark08]

I don't know anything at how the nipples screw in. I assume there is a flat spot, square or hex etc... to enable turning. In whatever case, try PB Blaster ( i think is it better than liquid wrench) to melt rust. Let it soak for a few hours, re-coat, keep applying maybe for a day or two. At this point grab the nipple and apply a quick lick to break loose. If a socket or screw driver bit fits it, then use an impact drill. Just hit one or two licks at a time. I find the power of BP blaster and an impact to do wonders on loosing stuck and/or rusted. On larger stuff i use an air impact but I now keep a batt operated impact drill handy for first try on about everything. Shock does wonders. Remember the 20lbs test fishing line that breaks from the fall of a ping pong ball????? Good luck