Winchester Model 74

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Grizz
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Winchester Model 74

Post by Grizz »

Found my semi auto winch behind a bunch of stuff that was in front of it.

It had fallen on the boat and broke the stock, and I couldn't get it to glue up, the wood seemed to reject jbweld. so it broke again.

unfortunately the stock is an integral part of the action, without precision fits metal to wood the rifle won't function correctly.

I wiped everything down with 0000 wool and gun oil. if it were functioning I would love the thing mightily.

it says "22 LONG RIFLE" on the barrel. the serial is 919xx .

it's my last and only real Winchester. any info is really appreciated.

including whether it is possible to find a new or NOS stock that fits it.

thanks in advance
harry
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by harry »

About the middle of the page Model 74 for 125.00
http://www.gun-parts.com/winchesterstocks/
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GunnyMack
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by GunnyMack »

Try Boydes, they probably have it.
JB weld not the best for wood, gotta have something that will penetrate the fibers of the wood. Gorilla glue would has been a better choice, not my first choice though.
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ywaltzucanrknrl
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by ywaltzucanrknrl »

I have had the best luck fixing stocks with Elmer's wood glue and stock pins---if you are willing to try it again, it might work if you want to keep the original stock. The stock pins are brass, but they can be covered if you are picky. I also drill small holes to allow the glue to fill them and also relieve pressure. The holes filled with glue serve a similar function to the stock pins.
Pete44ru
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by Pete44ru »

.

+1

I've always had success repairing gunstocks, using a 2-part epoxy after drilling multiple small diameter holes at random angles in the inside of both sides of the repair to "lock-in" both sides of the repair.

For fully-separated cross-stock breaks, like at the pistolgrip/wrist, I usually re-inforce the area via drilling for & epoxying in a metal rod that spans the gap.


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octagon
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by octagon »

All types of adhesives have strengths and weaknesses:
Epoxy : no known solvent, can leave distinct and highly visible glue lines.

Gorilla glue: squeeze out is prolonged, can stain, no known solvent.

Wood glue: excellent on wood repairs, solvent = heat for removal, but will fail with high heat ( trunk of car etc) for this reason I never use it on guns, they are exposed to heat eventually.

Super glue: working time is variable depending on type, several solvents available (nitro methane is best). Little of any glue lines depending on fit and color of parts. Not effected by heat. For these reasons super glue is all I use on guns (wood). Downside of super glue is it is brittle if subjected to sharp blows.

These tips are what I have found by repairing busted wood stuff as a professional for over 20 years, meant only as friendly advice :D .
I had a great opportunity to visit with a master gunsmith for an hour awhile back at a high volume repair shop. Wonderful conversation, between two old repair guys. He asked me what glue I used to repair wood parts on guns and I said super glue. He seemed relieved, and stated flatly that no other adhesive belongs on guns but super glue, mainly due to its reversibility (nitro methane) and the fact that it is unaffected by heat. I was glad that my findings mirrored his. He was a neat guy and fun to talk shop with.
Disclaimer: if your extensive testing indicates that epoxy or gorilla glue is the finest thing since boobs coming in pairs, by all means get after it. :D
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Grizz
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by Grizz »

thanks so much for the stock tips guys.

I am curious about the model, if a Winchester guy has any history and perhaps year of manufacture and anything else pertaining to the design I'd sure be interested to read about it.

Thanks
Les Staley
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by Les Staley »

Grizz, I have a 74 made for 22 shorts onlye. Mine is marked "not English made". And has British proofs (several) and a threaded muzzle. So, being a "Lend Lease " firearm (WW2) it was made sometime in the late 1930s or early 40s. I looked the manufacturing date up once on line but don't remember where.
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Pete44ru
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by Pete44ru »

octagon wrote: Thu Aug 17, 2017 1:11 pm
All types of adhesives have strengths and weaknesses:

Epoxy : no known solvent, can leave distinct and highly visible glue lines.

No solvent is a plus, which means that cleaning solvents (etc) won't effect the repair.

Epoxy can be removed via the application of heat (heat gun) - usually a non-starter for a wood repair.

Epoxy glue lines cam be pretty well camouflaged my mixing the epoxy with some sawdust from the same stock (I usually drill a few holes under the buttplate or inside the barrel channel to obtain some).

Grizz, your Model 74 was made in 1941.

Here are a few articles on it:

https://everything2.com/title/Winchester+Model+74

http://www.solidred.net/wordpress/the-w ... 4-project/



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octagon
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by octagon »

Which adhesive to use depends on the application. Epoxy considered a permanent repair. On my bench currently is (was) a beautifully mint early 60s Gibson cherry burst Hummingbird worth about 5 g's. The owner\ epoxy artiste used clear epoxy to reglue the bridge in the wrong spot, with a healthy amount slathered around the vintage finish on the top. Had he used the proper glue (wood glue in this instance) my price to remove bridge and relue in the right spot would be 150 bucks, the repair would be invisible to the most discerning eye. Three heating attempts would not budge the epoxy ( it will occasionally) so I removed it by carving it off with a hollow ground 1 in chisel, of course destroying it in the process. I'll carve him a new Brazilian rosewood bridge route a new saddle slot, and bone bridge pins. Shop fee is 100\hr plus parts. The new price will be many times 150 bucks, a good thing with two kids in college and another soon to be. :D I make no attempt to discourage amateurs use of epoxy, as the last line of my first post says...have at it! :D :D
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Grizz
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Re: Winchester Model 74

Post by Grizz »

Thanks for the links, exactly the info I wanted.

Doing lots of work on the cabin to get it ready for the winter and for next year when we hope to get back to enjoy living in the Tongass for the summer. Perhaps by spring I will be ready to head up in sailboat Ariel.

73,



Pete44ru wrote: Fri Aug 18, 2017 9:24 am
octagon wrote: Thu Aug 17, 2017 1:11 pm
All types of adhesives have strengths and weaknesses:

Epoxy : no known solvent, can leave distinct and highly visible glue lines.

No solvent is a plus, which means that cleaning solvents (etc) won't effect the repair.

Epoxy can be removed via the application of heat (heat gun) - usually a non-starter for a wood repair.

Epoxy glue lines cam be pretty well camouflaged my mixing the epoxy with some sawdust from the same stock (I usually drill a few holes under the buttplate or inside the barrel channel to obtain some).

Grizz, your Model 74 was made in 1941.

Here are a few articles on it:

https://everything2.com/title/Winchester+Model+74

http://www.solidred.net/wordpress/the-w ... 4-project/



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